Iyo inonyanya kukosha "kunzwa" kwekuchembera kweganda ndiko kuoma, kunoratidzwa nekuderera kwehunyoro uye kusakwanisa kuchengetedza unyoro. Ganda rinova rakaoma, rakaoma uye rinoputika. Chinhu chakanyanya hygroscopic chinangwa chekuzadza hunyoro hweganda uye kudzivirira kuoma chinonzi humectant. Iyo ganda rinonyorovesa michina, imwe ndeye kunwisa hunyoro; imwe yacho ndiyo barrier layer (defense layer) inodzivirira hunyoro hwemukati kubva pakuparara. Kupinda kwemwando kweichi chipingamupinyi chinodzivirira kana basa rayo rakajairika 2.9g/(m2 h-1)±1.9g/(m2 h-1), uye kana yarasika zvachose, i229g/(m2 h-1) ± 81g/( m2 h-1), zvichiratidza kuti chipingamupinyi chakanyanya kukosha.
Maererano nemaitiro ekunyorovesa, zvakasiyana-siyana zvezvinyoro zvine maitiro akanaka zvakagadzirwa. Inowanzo shandiswa humectants inosanganisira polyols, amides, lactic acid uye sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, collagen, chitin derivatives uye zvichingodaro.
(1) Polyols
Glycerin inotapira zvishoma zvinotapira zvinotapira mvura, miscible mumvura, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl doro, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol uye Phenol nezvimwe zvinhu. Glycerin chinhu chakakosha chekunyorovesa mbishi zvinhu zveO/W-mhando emulsification system muzvizoro. Iyo zvakare yakakosha mbishi zvinhu zvelotion. Inogonawo kushandiswa seyakanyorovesa yehupfu-ine paste, iyo ine nyoro uye inozora paganda. Mukuwedzera, glycerin inoshandiswawo zvakanyanya muzvigadzirwa zvehupfu hwemazino uye mafuta e-hydrophilic, uyewo chikamu chinokosha chezvigadzirwa zvehydrogel.
Propylene glycol imvura isina ruvara, yakajeka, zvishoma viscous, hygroscopic fluid. Inosanganiswa mumvura, acetone, ethyl acetate uye chloroform, uye yakanyungudutswa mudoro uye ether. Propylene glycol inoshandiswa zvakanyanya muzvizoro. Inogona kushandiswa seyakanyorovesa mumiriri uye moisturizer kune akasiyana emulsified zvigadzirwa uye zvigadzirwa zvemvura. Inogona kushandiswa seyakanyorovesa uye inonyorovesa yemazino kana yakasanganiswa ne glycerol uye sorbitol. Inogona kushandiswa seyakagadzirisa hunyoro mune zvigadzirwa zvedhayi rebvudzi.
1,3-Butanediol imvura isina ruvara uye isina kunhuhwirira ine hunyoro hwakanaka, inogona kutora mvura yakaenzana ne12.5% (RH50%) kana 38.5% (RH80%) yehuremu hwayo., isinganyanyi kutsamwisa kupfuura glycerin uye propylene glycol. Inogona kushandiswa zvakanyanya se moisturizer mune lotions, creams, lotions uye mazino. Mukuwedzera, 1,3-butanediol ine antibacterial effect. Sorbitol iwhite crystalline poda yakagadzirwa neglucose sechinhu chisina kubikwa. Iine kakunaka kanotapira. Sorbitol inonyungudika nyore nyore mumvura, inonyungudika zvishoma mu ethanol, acetic acid, phenol uye acetamide, asi isinganyunguriki mune mamwe organic solvents. Sorbitol ine yakanaka hygroscopicity, chengetedzo, uye yakanaka kugadzikana kwemakemikari. Yakave yakashandiswa zvakanyanya mumunda wemakemikari ezuva nezuva. Inogona kushandiswa seyakabikwa kune vasiri-ionic surfactants uye inogona zvakare kushandiswa sekirimu mune mushonga wemazino uye zvizorwa.
Polyethylene glycol ipolmer inonyungudika nemvura inogadzirwa nekuwedzera zvishoma nezvishoma ethylene oxide nemvura kana ethylene glycol. Inogona zvakare kunyungudutswa mune yakawanda yakasimba polar organic solvents uye ine nhevedzano yeakaderera kusvika epakati mamorekuru uremu. Mhando yechigadzirwa inogona kushandiswa semvura-inonyungudika colloidal musanganiswa mune dzakasiyana cosmetics. Polyethylene glycol inoshandiswa zvakanyanya mumaindasitiri ezvekuzora uye emishonga nekuda kwehunhu hwayo hwakanaka hwakadai sekunyungudika kwemvura, kusasimba kwemuviri, kupfava, mafuta, kunyorova kweganda, uye kupfava. Yakaderera molecular uremu polyethylene glycol inokwanisa kutora uye kuchengetedza mvura kubva mumhepo, uye inogadzirwa neplasticized uye inogona kushandiswa sehumectant; sezvo huremu hwema molecular hunowedzera, hygroscopicity yayo inodonha zvakanyanya. High molecular weight polyethylene glycol inogona kushandiswa zvakanyanya mumakemikari ezuva nezuva, mishonga, machira, kugadzira mapepa uye mamwe maindasitiri semafuta kana kupfava.
(2) Lactic acid uye sodium lactate
Lactic acid ndeye organic asidhi inowanikwa zvakanyanya mumasikirwo. Ndicho chigadzirwa chekupedzisira mumetabolism yeanaerobic organisms. Yakachengeteka uye haina chepfu. Lactic acid ndiyo inonyanya kunyunguduka asidhi mumvura mune yakasikwa moisturizing factor (NMF) yepidermis yemunhu, uye zvirimo zvingangoita gumi nemaviri%. Lactic acid uye lactate inokanganisa chimiro chetishu cheprotein-ine zvinhu, uye zvine plasticizing zviri pachena uye kupfavisa mapuroteni. Nokudaro, lactic acid uye sodium lactate inogona kuita kuti ganda rive rakapfava, kuputika uye kuwedzera elasticity. Iyo yakanaka acidifier muzvizoro zvekuchengetedza ganda. Iro carboxyl boka relactic acid molecule ine hukama hwakanaka hwebvudzi neganda. Sodium lactate inonyatso kunyorovesa, uye kugona kwayo kunyorovesa kwakasimba kupfuura echinyakare moisturizer senge glycerin. Lactic acid uye sodium lactate inoumba buffer mhinduro inogona kugadzirisa pH yeganda. Muzvizoro, lactic acid uye sodium lactate inonyanya kushandiswa semaconditioners uye ganda kana bvudzi zvinopfavisa, acidifiers kugadzirisa pH, makirimu uye lotions yekuchengeta ganda, shampoos uye maconditioner ekutarisira bvudzi uye zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvekuchengeta bvudzi. Inogona zvakare kushandiswa mukuveura zvigadzirwa uye detergents.
(3) Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na kwenguva pfupi) chigadzirwa chekuora chefibroin aggregates mu epidermal granular layer. Izvo zviri mukati meganda rinonyorovesa chinhu chinenge 12%. Basa rayo rekuita kuti ganda re stratum corneum ripfave. Iyo yakaderedzwa yemukati ye sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate mu stratum corneum inogona kuita kuti ganda rive rakaoma uye rakaoma. Commercial sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate haina ruvara, isina kunhuwa, zvishoma alkaline transparent aqueous solution, uye hygroscopicity yayo yakakwira zvakanyanya kupfuura yeglycerin, propylene glycol, uye sorbitol. Kana hunyoro hunenge huri 65%, hygroscopicity yakakwirira se56% mushure memazuva makumi maviri, uye hygroscopicity inogona kusvika 60% mushure memazuva makumi matatu; uye pasi pemamiriro akafanana, hygroscopicity yeglycerin, propylene glycol, uye sorbitol ndeye 40% mushure memazuva makumi matatu. , 30%, 10%. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate inonyanya kushandiswa sehumectant uye conditioner, inoshandiswa mumafuta ekuzora, shrink lotions, creams, lotions, uye zvakare inoshandiswa mumafuta emazino uye shampoos.
(4) Hyaluronic acid
Uye hyaluronic acid ichena amorphous yakasimba yakatorwa kubva munyama yemhuka. Iri disaccharide inodzokorora unit ye (1→3) -2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D(1→4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid Iyo polima yakaumbwa ine hukama hwemamolecular mass ye200,000 kusvika miriyoni imwe. Hyaluronic acid ndeye yakasikwa biochemical moisturizer ine yakasimba moisturizing zvimiro, yakachengeteka uye isina chepfu, isina kushatirwa kune ganda remunhu. Hyaluronic acid inonyungudika mumvura asi isinganyunguriki muorganic solvents. Nekuda kwekutatamuka nekuzvimba kweiyo molecular chimiro mune yayo aqueous solution system, ichiri nehupamhi hwekuona pakadzika pasi, uye inogona kusunga huwandu hwakakura hwemvura, saka ine yakanakisa kunyorova zvivakwa, yakakwirira viscoelasticity uye yakakwirira permeability.
Hyaluronic acid parizvino imhando yekunyorovesa nekuita kwakanakisa muzvizoro. Muzvizoro, inogona kupa kunyorova paganda, kuita kuti ganda rive elastic uye rakatsetseka, uye kunonoka kuchembera kweganda. Zvizhinji zvezvigadzirwa zvekambani zvehydrogel zvine hyaluronic acid kana zvinoshandiswa pamwe chete nazvo, uye vakawana mhinduro yakanaka mushure mekuunzwa kumusika.
(5) Hydrolyzed collagen
Collagen inonziwo glial protein. Iyo chena fibrous protein inoumba ganda remhuka, cartilage, tendon, mapfupa, tsinga dzeropa, cornea uye mamwe anobatanidza tishu. Kazhinji inodarika 30% yehuwandu hweprotein yemhuka. Icho chiri munyaya yakaoma yeganda uye dermal tissue. Collagen inoverengera kusvika 90%.
Collagen ndiyo yakakosha mapuroteni chikamu chinoumba ganda remhuka uye tsandanyama. Iine hukama hwakanaka neganda uye bvudzi. Ganda nebvudzi zvine kunyura kwakanaka kwairi, zvichibvumira kuti ipinde mukati mebvudzi, nezvimwewo, zvichiratidza Affinity yakanaka uye efficacy. Uye mushure me hydrolysis, iyo polypeptide cheni ye collagen ine hydrophilic mapoka akadai seamino, carboxyl uye hydroxyl, iyo inogona kuratidza yakanaka kuchengetedza mwando paganda. Hydrolyzed collagen zvakare ine mhedzisiro yekudzikisa makwapa eganda uye kubvisa kuunyana kunokonzerwa nemirairo yeultraviolet. Naizvozvo, basa re hydrolyzed collagen rinonyanya kuratidzwa mukunyorova, hukama, freckle whitening, anti-kuchembera zvichingodaro. Muzvinyama zvemhuka, collagen chinhu chisinganyungudika mumvura, asi chine simba rakasimba rekusunga mvura. Iyo hydrolysis ye collagen inogona kuitwa kuburikidza nekuita kweasidhi, alkali kana enzyme, uye soluble hydrolyzed collagen inogona kuwanikwa, iyo inoshandiswa zvakanyanya muzvizoro uye zvekurapa runako zvigadzirwa.
Mamwe marudzi ehumectants anosanganisira chitin uye zvinobva mairi, glucose ester humectants, uye zvinomera zvinomera zvakaita sealoe uye algae.
Nguva yekutumira: Nov-17-2021